Anyone lookin to buy AR's

Jan 2009
845
0
Renton, WA
That Entry Tactical is sweet! Too bad it's got a fixed front sight though.

The place I got mine still has a bunch of RRA 18" Varmint A4s (what I got) for $1135 and I see one CAR A4 for $975 available.

Class 3 Weapons
 
Jun 2009
32
0
washington
AR-15 kit or whole?

I am extremly interested in an AR, but money is tight and I am not sure if it would be better to build 1 or buy 1. This would be my first semi auto rifle so inpute would be greatly appriciated. I like this price on DPMS rifles but I have heard mixed reviews so I am kinda "gun shy" on them. I am not looking for a competition rifle, but it HAS to be reliable and go BANG every time. Home defence and outdoor hiking defence and occational plinking would be the main purpose. Thanks for the inpute! Keep it up guys!

-Lefdrgn
 
Jan 2009
1,684
0
s. greenlake *****
you should be able to build a basic shooter with iron sights for around $600 if your real patient... by that I mean you need to wait for all the parts to come together for your budget.


You can find stripped lowers for $110 and up.. but you'll have an easier time if you spend a little more.. PK has a Roggio Arsenal Stripped AR15 Lower for $135 right now.. this requires a FFL as it's the only part of the gun with a SN, so it's technically 'the gun'

PK Firearms | Online Store


Then the sky is the limit for building the rest.

Lower parts kits (trigger group, bolt catch, mag release, safety/takedown pins and detents) range from around $75 and up. I was reccomended the DPMS kit from a fellow member here, and have put three lowers together.. they all functioned perfectly so far with no machining/filing or major fiting issues

Your buttstock can range from $75 bucks or so (say for a standard A2 with buffer tube, or a real basic telescoping A4 collapsable) all the way up to $200-350 for the latest and greatest supercalafragalistic stuff..

Your Uppers again have a HUGE range.. but a basic flat top (m4-like) or carry handle (A2-like) can be had (with some patience) for $450 or so...


OR

after you get your stripped lower you can wait the 16 weeks and pick up a complete kit (minus the stripped reciever) from Del ton for $485 and up...

Del-Ton, Inc. AR-15 Rifle Kits - 16"

Or there is always cruising the AR15.com forums in the equipment exchange section for other guys selling parts/setups.
 
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Jun 2009
32
0
washington
Thanks a lot for the information, I like the idea of building my first just to understand how it all mates together and functions. All my guns I have now I can tear down and put back with realitive ease. I have found kits out there and noticed lowers were not part of it. Wish I could just hit the local gun show or shop to pick those up but have never seen em. Thanks for the ar-15.com idea, I will check them out.

Keep it up guys!

-Lefdrgn
 
Jan 2009
1,684
0
s. greenlake *****
I think west coast armory has stripped lowers in stock for around $115?

A buddy at work just told me he was there yesterday... I got my rock river stripped lower there for I think $145? can't remember..

give them a call they're in issaquah (sp)

West Coast Armory
 
Jun 2009
32
0
washington
finding the right lower

I am at a loss here, I have a picture in my head what I want but this lower bussiness is throwing me. I know a want it in 5.56 nato but not sure what to look for in a lower, machined, stamped, milled, types of metal, I am almost thinking I might be over my head, lol. Can anyone dumb this down for me? I understand that this is basically the gun, so I need it to be quality, and sturdy, if I build my 1st AR ands it isn't what I had in mind I need a lower that I can rubiuld on so I am not starting from scratch. Also looking at uppers, not sure what the benifit of a heavy barrel over light or vice versa. (Other then weight) other then that I think I get it. Also I keep finding that uppers seem to be more expensive then lowers which in my mind seems odd since the lower is considered the firearm. Man am I a noob! Lol

-Lefdrgn
 
Jan 2009
1,684
0
s. greenlake *****
don't get caught up too much with the lower..


in general there are the lowers meant for 'ar-15' 5.56/.223 and there are the 'ar-10'

ar-15 lowers can be used for a variety of calibers: .223, 9mm, .22lr, 6.8spc, .204 ruger etc etc..
the lower is exactly the same for these.. it's the barrel/reciever and magazine setups that allow the lower to change calibers..

AR-10 lowers are physically a different size (bigger). They are chambered in .308 winchester, .338 lapua, etc etc.. and again the lower stays the same, and the barrel,reciever, and magazines change out for the different caliber.

As far as the actual manufacturing process goes for a ar-15 lower... there your gonna get into a ford vs chevy pissing match..

I personally don't really care whether it was milled or forged your kinda paying for the logo on the side of the gun. there are definitely subtle differences in the angles milled/forged/stamped in the lower.. lots of minor/minor variations around the magazine well, trigger, etc etc

But in the end.. they will all most likely shoot just fine.. so just grab one that fits your budget.
 
Jun 2009
32
0
washington
awsome, thank you

Thank you for your candid response, it actually clears up a lot. I have been making a list of what I need to build mine. Now for the upper, specifically the barrel, heavy vs light vs fluted. And chrome lined. I think the heavy fluted cools faster and only reason I see that even being an issue would be continuous repeated and sustained fire, and even then not sure why heat would cause to many problems, maybe a jam or two? I like the lookes of a fluted barrel but do pros outway the cost for random sparing recreational shooting? Again thanks for the great advicxe guys, keep it up. Not helping just me but many more noobs like me.

-Lefdrgn
 
Jan 2009
1,684
0
s. greenlake *****
so in general, you can build a heavier barreled longer range sandbag gun.. or a lighter barreled stand and shoot shorter range gun..


Heavy 18-24 inch barrels are typically used on longer range varmit/sniper kind of setups.. The idea is the heavier barrels don't flex as much.. or they take longer to heat up causing flex, and thus loosing the tightness of your groups (keep in mind we're talking like 100-300+ yards).

Lighter 10-16 inch fluted/etc barrels are thought of more as 0-100 yrd quick target aquisition guns.. kind of like the spirit of the 'carbine' rifles.. These barrels are much lighter.. and when shooting quickly, the tightness of groups (+/- 1/4 inch) is not much of an issue.. more of a run and gun.



All that said.. a good shooter can MOST DEFINATELY shoot a 16" 200+ yrds..
 
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