I'd look at a kimber TLE (or tle/rl if you want to put a light on it)
Kimber America | Compact II & Pro Carry II Pistols
also a springfield operator/champion (4") would be an excellent choice.
Springfield Armory
I actually have the TLE/RL it's a great gun, size I love it.. but I think if I were to do it again Id go with the springfield. I have a couple kimbers they both shoot really well.. but for some reason I really like the springers.. I think it might just be a little springy envy.
Kimber America | Compact II & Pro Carry II Pistols
also a springfield operator/champion (4") would be an excellent choice.
Springfield Armory
I actually have the TLE/RL it's a great gun, size I love it.. but I think if I were to do it again Id go with the springfield. I have a couple kimbers they both shoot really well.. but for some reason I really like the springers.. I think it might just be a little springy envy.
Richard, while I do like a tactical, classic would be fine. To be honest I am not sure on this one which way to go.
Josh. I keep coming back to the Pro carry II more often than not. The Operator I think is a bit more than I want so spend this go around.
What about much lesser/off brands? RIA, STI ????
Sig?
I want to hear from those that have shot more of them than me. I know opinions are like assholes........ but I did ask for them.
Josh. I keep coming back to the Pro carry II more often than not. The Operator I think is a bit more than I want so spend this go around.
What about much lesser/off brands? RIA, STI ????
Sig?
I want to hear from those that have shot more of them than me. I know opinions are like assholes........ but I did ask for them.
Detonics MTX (tactical): Detonics - MTX
Detonics Combat Master (classic): Detonics - Combat Master
And a comparison of the two...
But now that I think of it, I have no idea what these cost...
Detonics Combat Master (classic): Detonics - Combat Master
And a comparison of the two...
But now that I think of it, I have no idea what these cost...
Richard, while I do like a tactical, classic would be fine. To be honest I am not sure on this one which way to go.
Josh. I keep coming back to the Pro carry II more often than not. The Operator I think is a bit more than I want so spend this go around.
What about much lesser/off brands? RIA, STI ????
Sig?
I want to hear from those that have shot more of them than me. I know opinions are like assholes........ but I did ask for them.
well.. I love how the sig 1911's look, but I've heard a bunch of stories about the external extractor.. and issues.
So for me, I'd just as soon not have a $1k experiment! lol
RIA is on the low end.. I think they make a great platform to customize? So get into one for 400-600.. then tweak it and make it how you like (I did that with my colt commander) you can have ed brown/les baer aftermarket parts and tune the gun to your preferences... but I would only do that if it were a hobby gun.. not a home protection/carry gun?
Does that make sense?
If your going to use it for protection I'd not choose a lesser model?
Detonics MTX (tactical): Detonics - MTX
Detonics Combat Master (classic): Detonics - Combat Master
And a comparison of the two...
But now that I think of it, I have no idea what these cost...
not gonna lie, those look FUN!
prolly nice to carry also.
like to see more.
emailed them, hope we have a local"ish" dealer
I have an old school Combat Master VI and love it. Detonics has the history when it comes to compact 1911s...
Try before you buy if you can.
Personally I'd stick with Kimber or Springfield. I've had the best experience with those. I was not a fan of RIA (finish quality was poor).
Kimbers seem to want a break in period while Springfields a little less so.
With Kimbers, you can choose between an alloy or steel frame. The weight difference is significant. Though the perceived recoil from an alloy frame is a bit higher.
Muzzle flip from the shorter barreled 1911's is also more pronounced compared to the 5".
Sticking with a 4" 1911 will also allow you to use the same mags as a 5".
Is this for concealed carry?
Do you have other 1911's?
I've got a Kimber Raptor Pro if you want to try a steel framed 4".
Personally I'd stick with Kimber or Springfield. I've had the best experience with those. I was not a fan of RIA (finish quality was poor).
Kimbers seem to want a break in period while Springfields a little less so.
With Kimbers, you can choose between an alloy or steel frame. The weight difference is significant. Though the perceived recoil from an alloy frame is a bit higher.
Muzzle flip from the shorter barreled 1911's is also more pronounced compared to the 5".
Sticking with a 4" 1911 will also allow you to use the same mags as a 5".
Is this for concealed carry?
Do you have other 1911's?
I've got a Kimber Raptor Pro if you want to try a steel framed 4".
I really like that Detonics MTX. I looked at their site & didn't see anything about pricing, do you have any idea what MSRP is?
I just did a search real quick and here's what I found where pricing was mentioned. Looks like they're somewhere in the $1250 - $1500 range for new:
Detonics MTX-H Info & Photo | GunGunsGuns.net
Detonics MTX, a modern modular double stack 1911 Reviews
Here's a review and range report -- I'm liking tie double stack aspect...
Detonics MTX 45 ACP pistol: First impressions « Bob Owens
Detonics MTX-H Range Report « Bob Owens
And some other information you might find interesting...
Compared to a Glock 19
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I have owned a lot od 1911's. For $1000, I'd get a Colt. The best 1911 value today is Dan Wesson IMO. They are extremely well made and around $1500.
Care to elaborate Brian? I was hoping you would chime in as well.
I am eyeing the G30sf and 36 as well as a couple others
The gun was designed as a full 5" model. One you start shortening up the system, you get a lot more temperamental gun. Maintaining a 1911 is more intensive, you have to stay on top of your springs (some smaller models call for recoil springs every 500 rnds) and extractor tension. Some don't like lighter weight bullets, so 230 gr. is a must.
Check 10-8 for good 1911 advice. They pretty much set the standard for a duty or defensive 1911
http://www.10-8performance.com/pages/Articles.html
If you must have a .45' try a sig 220 carry in single action. Good mags are cheaper. Super reliable and great trigger too. Safety is the same as a 1911 and ambidextrous.
Check 10-8 for good 1911 advice. They pretty much set the standard for a duty or defensive 1911
http://www.10-8performance.com/pages/Articles.html
If you must have a .45' try a sig 220 carry in single action. Good mags are cheaper. Super reliable and great trigger too. Safety is the same as a 1911 and ambidextrous.
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this is from Clint Smith. He's very squared away.
Always remember we are not damning the platform we are just damning your platform (gun). Just reading the responses from you all you can see the different levels of work/not work, etc, in regards to the Kimbers…as stated if yours works KEEP IT. Also, maybe Kimber sells a lot of guns…then again how many of you shot 500 /5000/ 50000 rounds though the gun(s). Because a gun sells or has a cool finish or looks cool …at least to me, doesn’t mean I am going to bet my life on it?
So here are some thoughts for you.
Jason Burton is here teaching with me and I talked him into giving you some of his thoughts:
From Burton:
- It seems obvious but it’s worth repeating, the 1911 platform works best and has the best potential for longevity and reliability in the original 45ACP 5” Government Model length. The further you get away from the original configuration of a 5” Government Model in 1911 the more you compromise the inherent reliability of the platform.
- Proper feed-ramp configuration and dwell-time are important components in the reliability of the 1911, especially as the guns get shorter and one goes away from the original 7rd magazine capacity. Combine improper feed-ramp configuration and extended capacity magazines with a shorter cycling gun (such as a 3” or 3.5” barreled gun or one that has been made to cycle shorter by sticking a recoil-buffer or the like in the gun) and your setting yourself on a path for potential failure. That doesn’t mean a 3”, 3.5”, 4”, or 4.25” 1911 can’t work, but the shorter the gun gets the less tolerant it will be to improper dimensions, worn out recoil springs, and out of spec magazines.
- Short 1911 are simply less forgiving.
- Caliber changes (read anything other than 45ACP) will also be less forgiving to an improperly set-up 1911. That doesn’t men they can’t work… 9mm Commanders are a great example of an “other than 45ACP” chambering that works well in a gun shorter than a Government Model. The shorter OAL o the 9mm and the position of the cartridge in the magazine helps make up for the shorter cycle/dwell-time of the Commander length 1911.
- Break-in periods… I’ve never really bought into “breaking in” a 1911… which doesn’t mean it’s never had to been done depending on the gun’s configuration, finish, barrel fit, etc. If they are built correctly they typically work right out of the box. Often times we are instructed to break-in automobile engines because of heat, friction, and the need for parts to “seat” in place… but all a 1911 really has to do is reciprocate back and forth in a straight line. By contrast, a Smith and Wesson revolver has more going on that a 1911 does but we never hear of anyone having to break those in.
These things are all applicable regardless of brand… Colt, Kimber, Springfield, whatever.
End Jason
Begin Clint
We have had good luck with S&W MP pistols. Again, the bigger the gun the better they work.
Revolvers…I don’t nor would I own a 327 except in a Chevy Nova…preferably a 1966.
I have more revolvers than semi-auto pistols and I have shot 640’s. I think Heidi has one. I didn’t say they were bad guns…then I wouldn’t build a custom cabinet with a chainsaw?
It might be a case of the right tool…as an ankle gun in a vehicle…as an example.
Many people I meet and talk to have “In theory” what their problem will be in a fight
Theories are often mugged by facts.
How many of you have planned a family vacation? How many times have they worked out the way you planned?
Gunfights are the same way…
Jason and I are going to work our real job…teaching students who are here how to defend their families and themselves.
Regards,
Him & I
Always remember we are not damning the platform we are just damning your platform (gun). Just reading the responses from you all you can see the different levels of work/not work, etc, in regards to the Kimbers…as stated if yours works KEEP IT. Also, maybe Kimber sells a lot of guns…then again how many of you shot 500 /5000/ 50000 rounds though the gun(s). Because a gun sells or has a cool finish or looks cool …at least to me, doesn’t mean I am going to bet my life on it?
So here are some thoughts for you.
Jason Burton is here teaching with me and I talked him into giving you some of his thoughts:
From Burton:
- It seems obvious but it’s worth repeating, the 1911 platform works best and has the best potential for longevity and reliability in the original 45ACP 5” Government Model length. The further you get away from the original configuration of a 5” Government Model in 1911 the more you compromise the inherent reliability of the platform.
- Proper feed-ramp configuration and dwell-time are important components in the reliability of the 1911, especially as the guns get shorter and one goes away from the original 7rd magazine capacity. Combine improper feed-ramp configuration and extended capacity magazines with a shorter cycling gun (such as a 3” or 3.5” barreled gun or one that has been made to cycle shorter by sticking a recoil-buffer or the like in the gun) and your setting yourself on a path for potential failure. That doesn’t mean a 3”, 3.5”, 4”, or 4.25” 1911 can’t work, but the shorter the gun gets the less tolerant it will be to improper dimensions, worn out recoil springs, and out of spec magazines.
- Short 1911 are simply less forgiving.
- Caliber changes (read anything other than 45ACP) will also be less forgiving to an improperly set-up 1911. That doesn’t men they can’t work… 9mm Commanders are a great example of an “other than 45ACP” chambering that works well in a gun shorter than a Government Model. The shorter OAL o the 9mm and the position of the cartridge in the magazine helps make up for the shorter cycle/dwell-time of the Commander length 1911.
- Break-in periods… I’ve never really bought into “breaking in” a 1911… which doesn’t mean it’s never had to been done depending on the gun’s configuration, finish, barrel fit, etc. If they are built correctly they typically work right out of the box. Often times we are instructed to break-in automobile engines because of heat, friction, and the need for parts to “seat” in place… but all a 1911 really has to do is reciprocate back and forth in a straight line. By contrast, a Smith and Wesson revolver has more going on that a 1911 does but we never hear of anyone having to break those in.
These things are all applicable regardless of brand… Colt, Kimber, Springfield, whatever.
End Jason
Begin Clint
We have had good luck with S&W MP pistols. Again, the bigger the gun the better they work.
Revolvers…I don’t nor would I own a 327 except in a Chevy Nova…preferably a 1966.
I have more revolvers than semi-auto pistols and I have shot 640’s. I think Heidi has one. I didn’t say they were bad guns…then I wouldn’t build a custom cabinet with a chainsaw?
It might be a case of the right tool…as an ankle gun in a vehicle…as an example.
Many people I meet and talk to have “In theory” what their problem will be in a fight
Theories are often mugged by facts.
How many of you have planned a family vacation? How many times have they worked out the way you planned?
Gunfights are the same way…
Jason and I are going to work our real job…teaching students who are here how to defend their families and themselves.
Regards,
Him & I
