Lead (non-jacketed) bullets

Jan 2009
1,318
1
Kirkland, WA
What can you guys tell me about non-jacketed bullets? I came across a box (maybe 50 or so) of old .45 ACP shells but they're all just lead. And they have different bullet shapes.

Is there a concern about the lead being too soft and clogging up the rifling? Or did bullets start seeing jackets because of environmental concerns of lead contamination? Or is it because they were getting deformed during shipment? Why aren't these common anymore?

Seriously, when I was a kid all we had were lead, non-jacketed bullets. Shot the hell out of those things. But here I sit today, not knowing what to do with this ammo...
 
Jan 2009
845
0
Renton, WA
It's great for shooting steel plates and such, just splatters vs the potential for a ricochet. There's a local guy that makes quality coated lead bullets... I know Hawker uses em and I have a small bag of 9mm I need to get to Mig to reload & try out.
 
Jul 2011
124
0
Seattle
Going to brake down the question into a couple of parts, I apologise if everyone already knows this crap.

Soft vs. Hard : you can get some really really hard lead bullets. The stuff buffalo bore sells for dangerous game hunting is crazy stuff. Cast lead bullets that hang together punching though a buffalo shoulder at 2000 f.p.s.+. Plated bullets like Rainier ballistics stuff is really soft. So soft that you can easily deform them with a strongish taper crimp. They don't tend to deform during shipping though, so I don't think that' a concern. Even the big-boy .50cal bullets I use in my DE don't seem to dent just rattling around in their box.

Lead bullets and fouling: This might have something to do with the move away from lead. Unless you're shooting a polygonal rifled barrel, it will foul, but only to a point, then the lead reaches a stable level with each round not depositing, or perhaps cleaning as much as it's leaving, lead on its way out. The problem with polygonal barrels, as I understand it, is they don't exhibit this self-cleaning mechanism. You're probably fine for some number of rounds between cleaning, but after that the bore can get tight enough to cause a failure. I think this is the "some glocks can shoot lead, some can't" thing you hear. Some people clean up after 50 rounds, some want to shoot 1k between cleanings.


Bullet shape: I know wadcutters and semi-wadcutters were popular with accuracy-heavy competitions, I heard they punch cleaner holes in paper? Perhaps that's part of the falling out of favour?

Why Jacketed: I think this is driven almost largely by indoor ranges requirements, which is questionable at best. I never went to a indoor ranges until I moved up here, so I don't know when that started or if it's always been the case. This is kinda dumb because a) almost all the pb vapor is from the primer b) unless you're shooting total metal jacket bullets, you've likely still got exposed lead at the base of the bullet against the powder where all this lead is supposedly being vaporized. What does get vaporized is the bullet lube, and this can cause excessive smoke. Unique in a low-pressure .38 load under a cast lead bullet is a serious smoke-show. This can be a problem for modern pistol games for obvious reasons.

Shooting plates : just to clarify, I don't think that the potential for ricochet of the bullet is likely to happen if you're shooting at properly designed plates at acceptable velocities (~750fps is required for steel challenge). The problem is the jacket coming off the lead and causing dangerous splatter on improperly set-up steel. Talked to a guy that needed stitches in his face due to such an occurrence one time.

I see folks that still used cast lead bullets, but with moly/plated stuff being almost as cheap, and acceptable at more indoor ranges, I think that's why the re-loaders have gotten away from them.

One other cool deal with moly bullets for competition : they will crono faster with the same powder charge as jacketed/cast bullets. More power factor for the same recoil.


Man I kinda rambled there....
 
Mar 2013
33
0
Rottenchester WA
Speed & poor fit is what leads a barrel.

Not knowing if your boolits are gas checked, you dont know how fast they can be pushed.

A proper fit boolit can be pushed to 1400fps easy with zero chance of leading.

An ill fit boolit can lead a barrel going as slow as 900fps.

I shoot plain based boolits @ 1700fps, without any leading (out a rifle) but then I know what Im doing. My wheel weight boolits are properly fit. The gas checked ones Ive had up to 2500fps.

Properly made cast boolits will do far more truma damage than PP or jacketed going the same speed.
 
Jan 2009
870
0
Lynnwood, WA
Speed & poor fit is what leads a barrel.

Not knowing if your boolits are gas checked, you dont know how fast they can be pushed.

A proper fit boolit can be pushed to 1400fps easy with zero chance of leading.

An ill fit boolit can lead a barrel going as slow as 900fps.

I shoot plain based boolits @ 1700fps, without any leading (out a rifle) but then I know what Im doing. My wheel weight boolits are properly fit. The gas checked ones Ive had up to 2500fps.

Properly made cast boolits will do far more truma damage than PP or jacketed going the same speed.

^lots of that is new to me (not that I'm some great expert)

proper fit is per gun, however--not caliber.


I've done a little research on lead bullets because they are cheap, and also my uncle reloads with his own cast bullets.

With velocity comes lead fouling -- so adding jackets will let you increase velocity without ruining your barrels

in general, jacketed rounds make it easy to manufacture predictable ammo for the masses
 
Mar 2013
33
0
Rottenchester WA
By "fit" I mean that you should slug your barrel, then you will know how deep your grooves are. Then you size your boolits to fit your barrel. If you are using un sized boolits, its a craps shoot, if they lead or not.

To slug your barrel, you can check out you tube for videos. Basicly you use a fishing weight or round ball (both number 1 lead, softest lead). You grease it up and with a 1/4 rod stuff it though your barrel. Then use a caliber to see what you REAL groove size is.
Then you buy a sizer .001 bigger. WHen you stuff your boolits though the sizer, what comes out the other end fit your barrel.

Jackets were made so the bullet grabs the lands and grooves well. With a cast projectile you can add a gas check, which fits on the backside of the cast boolit. So as the powder burns, it burns against the metal gas check, and not the raw lead. With gas checks you can go to 2000fps with little chance of leading.

Handguns are not my forte', all my casting is for rifles, so I must defer you to

Cast Boolits

Where you can also find out what the difference is between a bullet & a boolit
 
Jan 2009
1,318
1
Kirkland, WA
How about a specific thread or something? I mean, it's annoying that you're using that word after just one thread, but to then send us to an entire forum to figure it out is even more so...
 
Mar 2013
33
0
Rottenchester WA
How about a specific thread or something? I mean, it's annoying that you're using that word after just one thread, but to then send us to an entire forum to figure it out is even more so...

The search enigine there would have taken you to the stickie that explains boolits are what you make in your garage (well vented) and a bullet is what you buy in a box that someone else made
 
Jul 2011
124
0
Seattle
How about a specific thread or something? I mean, it's annoying that you're using that word after just one thread, but to then send us to an entire forum to figure it out is even more so...

My understanding is it's a made-up term that originated on the aforementioned cast bullet forum to distinguish home-brew from factory-made. I'm going to guess the entomology went something like : "Crap, castbullets.com is taken/expensive."
 
Jan 2013
72
0
Corvallis OR
Roll your own. These Boolits were cast using a $20 Lee Mold. The alloy was melted in a $55 Lee pot and I scrounged the lead and wheel weights. It takes some practice and a little study. If anyone around Corvallis wants help getting started, let me know. I just retired and have plenty of time. Ken
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Dec 2012
266
1
Vancouver, WA
Just saw this post, that's pretty cool, I'm not ready to start reloading, due to the perception i have that this is the worst time in the last 40 years to think about starting. Im just not into paying money for equipment that I cant use because supplies are so short.

What caliber are they? .40? And why are they ribbed like that?
 
Jan 2013
72
0
Corvallis OR
38 spl. These are tumble lubed bullets that haven't been lubed yet. The ribs hold the lube. There is another type that has a deep groove to hold lube and it is applied with a lubrisizer or hand dipped. I doubt I'll spend the money to go that route. Lots of fun anyway, having piles of bullets that cost almost nothing. Even if a guy had to buy alloy, bullets for a couple bucks a pound would still be a bargain. Ken
 
Jan 2009
1,318
1
Kirkland, WA
Are you using full lead or do you have a mix you like? I've never cast bullets before but it could be fun/useful. But yeah, what's the mix ratio?
 
Jan 2013
72
0
Corvallis OR
I'm using 50/50 wheel weight and pure lead with a very little 95% tin solder. Straight WW is great for pistols, but they are getting hard to come by. I don't have a hardness tester so I use drawing pencils. Different pencils are are different hardness and the alloy can be tested for hardness by seeing if the pencil will mar the lead or not. It's a little more detailed than that , but not much. Ken
 
Feb 2009
177
0
Forest Grove, OR
Joken I live in Corvallis, and have always been interested in learning how to load my own rounds. If you wouldn't mind someone peering over your shoulder while you're doing it I'd love to learn!
 
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